Nothing has prepared us for Zurich

Another day, another city and this time it's Zurich, the largest city in Switzerland. We have been to many of Europe's greatest cities in our travels but nothing, nothing, has prepared us for Zurich. It is a beautiful day, and it looks as if nobody works in the city, as the parks along Lake Zurich are absolutely full of people sunning themselves (although it's about 22 degrees, it feels much hotter). We have never seen such opulence as here in Zurich. BMW and Mercedes Benz are like the cars you'd give your kids if they were starting to drive. This place is full of Maserati, Porsche, Ferrari, you name it. Apart from being the most expensive place we've ever visited, it's clear that most people here are very well off. 

The street on which we're staying

Just around the corner

Beautiful Lake Zurich, about 2 minutes from our place

The road trip from Basel was breathtakingly beautiful, such is the Swiss countryside. I reckon they must cut the grass for hay once a week, it grows so well. And stocking rates seem astronomical. I'm pretty sure our two-acre paddock back home could support an entire dairy of cows. Rather than go on too much, I think I'll let the photos do the talking.

Lake Zurich, with the Swiss Alps in the background. Had to pinch myself to make sure I was really here

Lake Zurich where it joins the river

Day 2 in Basel, and it's a public holiday. As a result, most of the shops are closed, including supermarkets. We did manage to find one open not too far from our place this morning, which allowed us to get our breakfast of pastries. 

A road near where we are staying

The Rathaus - city hall

Last night we walked along the Rhine, a very popular thing to do it seems. The river's current is so strong here that the little ferries which take passengers from one bank to the other are actually pulled across by a wire and pulley arrangement, rather than a traditional engine.

A little ferry battling the Rhine's current. Notice the wire pulling it across.

We also visited the Basel Munster, a beautiful old church. Getting around here has been very easy, due to the very efficient and extensive public transport network. The trams and buses are exceptionally clean and very frequent. Fortunately for us, registered visitors to Basel are entitled to receive a free transport card for the duration of their stay, and given the cost of everything in this country, we are really lucky to have one.

The Rhine as the sun is setting

You can see the Munster in the background

The Munster

Earlier today we hopped on a tram which took us way out of the city's limits and into he Swiss countryside, although to do so we had to briefly enter, and then leave again, France. The countryside is absolutely Swiss and absolutely beautiful. It is green and lush, and very tranquil. If I am reincarnated after my death, I think I'll come back as cow in Switzerland; could anything be more contented?

Swiss countryside

Swiss village

We also visited a very special place this morning. It was the very spot where we were standing in three countries at the same time. That's right, we were standing on the border of France, Switzerland and Germany at the same time. And of course, due to the miracle of the EU, no passports were required. We first showed our Australian passports at Geneva ten days ago and we will not need to show them again until we leave Frankfurt four weeks later; suck eggs Britain.

Top left, Alison standing in Switzerland
Top right, Alison standing in Germany
Above, Alison in France. She's certainly well travelled.

Basel is a typically modern European city, with a healthy helping of historic reminders of where it came from. It is hard not to feel a bit jealous as an Australian tourist over here. It's not a perfect existence, but the Europeans seem to do so many things better than we do back home. After our recent visit to the Swiss countryside, retirement as a Swiss farmer seems pretty idyllic.

Is it Switzerland or is it Germany?

What a whirlwind few hours. In the space of three hours we have gone from speaking French (badly) to German (exceptionally badly). I need to explain. Switzerland is really a country with split personalities, three to be exact. Those in the west of the country, Geneva for example, speak exclusively French. The buildings look very French and it's basically just like being in France. The north of the country, cities like Basel and Zurich, speak pretty much only German. In fact, getting off the train you could easily think you were in Vienna or Munich; the buildings are distinctly German. Finally, if you visit the south of Switzerland, close to cities such as Milan and Turin, they mostly speak Italian. It appears there is no real Swiss language as such, no Swiss culture, architecture or even cuisine. Talk about an identity crisis.

A typical Basel street, typically German

Our first impressions of Basel are very good. As I said, it's a bit like being back in Vienna, even the trams are carbon copies. It was very busy in the streets when we went for a walk but, surprisingly, all the shops were closing early. We only just found out that tomorrow is a public holiday, so many of the attractions will not be open. It's uncanny the number of times we arrive in a country only to find we are smack bang in the middle of a holiday period. It means that not only are many shops closed, but public transport is full to overflowing (no seats for us oldies). 

The famous Rhine River runs through many European countries

The Rhine

We've really only got one full day (tomorrow) in Basel, so we'll need to be a bit selective about what we do. To be honest, we're not that concerned if we don't do much at all, as we've been on the go for the past eleven days and a bit of a slower day will do us good.

We took a tram a few hours ago, basically just to have sit and relax, and it ended up taking us right out of the city, in fact, right to the German border (which admittedly is only a few kilometres from the city). The countryside was absolutely beautiful, indeed, picture post card stuff. I'm really looking forward to more of the same tomorrow.

Goodbye Dijon, farewell France

Today is our last morning in Dijon, which means it may well be our last ever day in France. In a way, we are saddened, because we really love France, and sometimes even the French. The French can be a very temperamental people. At their best, they are warm and inviting; at their worst, cold and indifferent. Of course, generalisations can be used against any group of people and must not be taken too seriously. However, there do seem to be some cultural norms and behaviours which, rightly or wrongly, we tend to ascribe to different nationalities. But, get to know them, and the French are very hospitable.

Inside our loft apartment, our home for the past three days.

Even higher up to our bedroom

Last night we ventured out for an evening meal of beef bourguignon, the local favourite in this region. After walking a fair way, we eventually settled on a little cafe cum bistro cum bar situated in the Place de la Liberation. We didn't have very high hopes for it, but we were wrong. For some unknown reason, we were lavished with attention, which included an offering of free charcuterie, presumably because we had been waiting too long (which we hadn't) and crusty bread. When the meal did arrive it was beautifully prepared, the beef falling apart as it should and the gravy rich with red wine and onions.

Our meal from last night, served with homemade pasta.

We will be sad to leave Dijon. We think it may well be our favourite place thus far; we even said to each other this morning as we walked to our favourite patisserie for morning tea that we could probably live here. It is small enough and rural enough to have a nice community atmosphere, but large enough to offer everything anybody could need. It is, quite simply, a gem. The sort of place a wise old owl would chose to live. 

The view from our window; who wouldn't miss this.

It's market day in Dijon

We were up bright and early this morning to attend the undercover markets in Dijon. We'd heard they were pretty good and decided we'd get something from them for breakfast. We've become pretty much accustomed to markets in Europe, from our four years of travels through the Continent, and found they never disappoint. Dijon's market was a little smaller than we'd expected, but nonetheless great to wander through. There was a real emphasis, as you would expect, on cheeses and meats, with terrines and pates in abundance. We often frequent markets in Australia, but there is something about a French market which takes things to another level. The meats always look, dare I say it, fresher as if they've come from some sort of super pigs or cows. But you can also buy pigeon, quail, rabbit in fact, just about anything which walks or flies. 

One of the flavoured salamis we purchased - magnificent.

Inside the Dijon market

These handmade terrines are very popular in this part of France.

White asparagus is also popular, and plentiful.

Quite early in the morning, so not very crowded yet (best time to shop)

We decided on a beautiful fig salami, at 4 euros a real steal, but we could have chosen from over twenty different flavourings. We also bought a loaf of crusty french bread and an apricot pastry, both of which were delicious. A beautiful ruby red grapefruit, which are so much better than any I've tasted back home, an apple and some bananas completed our breakfast shop. Suffice to say, our breakfast was worth the experience.

We also decided to purchase a 24 hour travel pass, something we love to do in every city we visit. We then spent a good five or six hours hopping off and on buses and trams, which took us the length and breadth of Dijon. I wanted, during our stay in Burgundy, to visit one of the wineries and ever resourceful Alison found one just on the outskirts of town, only a short walk from where one of the city buses terminated. It was a great little trip and, sure enough, ten minutes after getting off we were surrounded by hectares of grape vines, and a very old winery, called Chateau de Marsannay. The cellar door was quite different to anything we are used to back home. Rather than being greeted by a long bench with tasting glasses and young men and women offering suggestions to try, we were greeted by someone who more closely resembled a receptionist. I didn't quite know if I was there to taste or make an appointment with a medical specialist. We were told we could look around and, if we found something we wanted to buy, she would be happy to let us have a taste, but with most bottles somewhere around the 30 - 60 euro mark, we decided not to trouble them. Still, it was lovely out in the country among the grape vines, which are much lower to the ground than ours back home, and all within 30 minutes of the centre of town.

How French is this? A beautiful house we walked by on our way to the winery (I've put in an offer with the owners).

Ah, a french vineyard in the middle of Burgundy.

This is Chateau de Marsannay

Alas, we leave Dijon tomorrow on our return to Switzerland (I've been collecting bottles and cans from the side of the roads and cashing them in for the deposit - we'll need the extra cash). Once again, we've fallen in love with Dijon but we've felt the same about every place we've visited, and I'm sure Basel and then Zurich will receive similar praise once we're there.

The Owl's Trail

We just completed walking the Owl's Trail, which I mentioned in the last post. It took us about 90 minutes to complete, so I thought I'd dedicate this post to the trail in its entirety. Hopefully, it won't take you 90 minutes to read, and it shouldn't hurt your feet in the slightest. Enjoy.

Stop 1 - Jardin Darcy. This was the town's first public garden, created in 1880.

Stop 2 - The facade of the Hotel de la Cloche. Famous establishment in Dijon since the 15th century.

Stop 3 - Porte Guillaume. This 18th century triumphal arch is named after Guillaume Volpiano, the 11th century reformer of the Saint-Benigne Benedictine abbey.

Art nouveau building with pagoda roofs.

Stop 4 - Hotel des postes

Stop 5 - Covered market. On market days this area comes to life, ablaze with colour and filled with wonderful smells. Built 1873 - 1875.

Stop 6 - Place Francois Rude. This square was constructed in 1904 after the demolition of a block of old houses.

Stop 7 - Hotel Aubriot. In the cellars of this 13th century house that the monetary reserves were stored.

This is Maison Maillard, erected for Jean Mailard, Mayor of Dijon, in 1560.

Stop 8 - Notre-Dame. A masterpiece of Burgundy architecture of the 13th century, Notre-Dame has a remarkable facade, decorated with fine arcatures and rows of false gargoyles.

Stop 9 - Over the centuries, this owl has become a good luck charm for passers-by who rub it with their left hand.

Stop 10 - Maison Milliere. this house was built in 1483 and it has kept its typical medieval appearance. The facade has trained its wooden-beam walls, filled with enamelled bricks.

Stop 11 - L'Hotel de Vogue. This is the best example of a 17th century townhouse between courtyard and garden.

Inside of above

Stop 12 - The theatre. Built in neo-classic style at the beginning of the 19th century.

La Nef. This is located in the former abbey church of St. Etienne.

Eglise St. Michel

Stop 13 - Square des Ducs. This small garten is all that remains of the huge created for Marguerite De Flandres, the wife of Philip The Bold.

Philip The Bold

Stop 14 - Tour Philippe Le Bon. This tower dominates the town at a height of 45 metres. Erected in the 15th century.

Stop 15 - Palais des Ducs.

Stop 16 -  Place de la Liberation. this semi-circular square was designed in 1685.

Stop 17 - Palais de Justice. Designed for the old Burgundy Parliament in the 16th century.

Stop 18 - Private mansions, representative of the houses of the parliamentarians of Dijon.

Stop 19 - Saint-Jean and Place Bossuet. Bossuet was born in Dijon in 1627. The church was converted to a theatre in 1974.

Stop 20 - Saint-Philibert. The porch of this ancient Saint-Philibert Church served as the place for the election of the town's mayors until the French Revolution. During the revolution it became a storage room for salt.

Stop 21 - Saint-Benigne. From the time of the ancient abbey rebuilt from the year 1000 by Guillaume de Volpiano. It is here that the relics of Saint-Benigne, the 1st apostle of Burgundy are to be found.